2/19/13

Winters (Jan - Feb 2013) Snowfall at Cedar Hill, Shimla

Entrance to Cedar Hill

Winters 2013 brought heavy snowfall in Himachal Pradesh and Cedar Hill


Cottage for Renovation at Cedar Hill

After 5 conitnous days of snow Cedar Hill recieved 3.5 ft snow.

Finding things to click at Cedar Hill

Winter seasons first snowfall at Cedar Hill Lodge, Shimla

Time to shovel the snow

Photo of Shali Peak taken from Cedar Hill before the Greater Himalayas recieved heavy snowfall

7/8/12

From Delhi to Shimla to Kinnaur (Sangla). Chitkul (the 'Last' village)



Out of the (3) Sangla’s::::: Sangla, India & Sangla in Nepal & Sangla Hill, in Pakistan - this information is with regards to Sangla and Chitkul here in our dev bhoomi, our state of Himachal Pradesh, India.

In Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur, the tribal district lies 250 km away from Shimla and is situated on the NH - 22 (Hindustan Tibet Road). 

Valley View - Sangla (towards Chitkul village)

Getting there:

Option 1) – (2 days from Delhi)
 From Delhi arrive at Shimla. (9 Hrs.) (Stay here).

The next day proceed to Narkanda then to Rampur, Tapri to Sangla to Chitkul. (9 Hrs.)
Shimla to Rampur is 3 hours. Rampur is the district headquarters of the present district of Rampur, the capital of erstwhile kingdom of Rampur-Bushair whose rulers ruled all over the Kinnaur valley upto Kullu.  Situated on banks of river Sutlej, its a fertile valley and still houses the palace of the erstwhile rulers.  Being situated in the base of the valley, at an altitude of barely 1100 meters, it is hot in the summers.  One passes through Hydro-electric power stations after Rampur which have been built by putting dams across the mighty Sutlej.  One comes across Naptha (Naptha-Jakhri project), followed by Wangtu & Karcham, which are being developed by the Jaypee Group.  For going towards Sangla, one has to take the diversion across the bridge across Karcham and the ascent towards Sangla begins from here.

Option 2) (2 to 3 days from Musoorie)
From Musoorie follow the road to Tons Valley and enter Himachal at Tiuni ... from Tiuni continue journey till Hatkoti situated amongst apple orchards.  Stay at the tourist guest house here ... this is a 6 Hr. journey from Musoorie ... Then Hatkoti to Sarahan again a 6 Hr. journey .. and ultimately to Sangla ... 

Best time to visit the beautiful Sangla Valley is in the months between April and June and again September and October. 

Sangla is a scenic hill-town in the Baspa Valley, also referred to as the Sangla valley, in the Kinnaur District of the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, close to the Tibetan border. Sangla Valley is located in Kinnaur Distict of Upper Himchal Pradesh, India. Of all the side valleys of the river Satluj, the Sangla valley (literal translation means - ‘Sang’ is light & ‘La’  is pass - in Tibetan)  is perhaps the most picturesque one that curves along the ‘Baspa river’. Unlike most other major streams of the area that flow north to south, the river Baspa arises in the mountains of adjoining Uttrakhand and flows north-west to meet the churning torrents of the river Satluj at Karcham. 

Tapri to Sangla


The road leading to the Sangla Valley is challenging in part. Situated on the banks of river Baspa, the Sangla Valley boasts of Kinner Kailash Peak which can be seen from the Sangla Village. The Kinner Kailash peak is the said to be winter home of Lord Shiva. The valley is surrounded by richly forested conifer slopes and offers delightful views of the high mountains. The Baspa hydel-project is nearing completion, only adds to the growing importance of this destination. 

Sangla village is on a slope with houses rising one above the other with gigantic Kinner-Kailash peak (6,050 m) towering over it. Sangla is also famous for Kamru Fort. This fort was the place where rajas of Kinnaur were crowned. Now this fort is dedicated to Kamakshi Temple. The Goddess idol was brought from Guwahati (Assam).Sangla is situated at a distance of about 98 kms. from Rampur and is on the hind side of the Kinner Kailash range.  The valley is about 95 km long, starting from Karcham (1899 m) at one end to Chung Sakhago pass (5242 m) at the other. The famous village of Chitkul (3450 m), is situated in the middle of this valley, is the last inhabited village here in India-Tibet border.  

Baspa valley’s highest village is Chitkul and the last village on Hindustan – Tibet road, where tourist can go without permit. The village comprises of three temples of Goddess Mathis in the village and it is being said that they are 500 years old. It is a friendly place for trekking. The place provides beautiful scenic place apart from that it also provides ideal conditions for fishing on river Baspa. It is at a distance of 24 kilometers from Sangla. Out of the three temples the Kagyupa Temple has a highly valued old image of the Shakyamuni Buddha, a Wheel of Life mandala and four Directional Kings on each side of the door. The goddess of Chitkul is the only non Buddhist deity to whom respect must be paid by the Parikrama pilgrims.

Enroute: Sangla - Batseri - Chitkul Village

Chitkul is the last inhabited village near the Indo-Tibet border. The Indian road ends here. During winters, the place mostly remains covered with the snow and the inhabitants move to lower regions of Himachal. Potatoes grown at Chitkul are one of the best in the world and are very costly. Chitkul, on the banks of Baspa River, is the first village of the Baspa Valley and the last village on the old Hindustan-Tibet trade route. It is also the last point in India one can travel to without a permit. Of particular interest at Chitkul are its houses with either slate or wooden plank roofs, a Buddhist temple and a small tower. However, there has been an increased use of tin-roofs, especially the high school and the army/ITBP barracks.

The Kagyupa temple has a highly valued old image of the Shakyamuni Buddha, a Wheel of Life mandala and four Directional Kings on either side of the door. Chitkul is practically the last point of the famous Kinner kailash, Parikrama as one can hitch a hike from here onwards. After one crosses over the 5,242 m high Charang Pass, it is a long and steep run down through slithery scree slopes to Chitkul(3,450m). The powerful goddess of Chitkul is the only non-Buddhist deity to which respect must be paid by the Parikrama pilgrims. It is believed that the local Deity is related to the Deity of Gangotri and till recently the locals would carry the Deity to Gangotri on foot over high mountain passes. Chitkul is situated around 40 km from Karcham, the place where road bifurcates from Hindustan-Tibet Road (NH 22). The Sangla Valley is a delight for nature lovers; especially the stretch after Raksham and right up to Chitkul. The valley is extremely beautiful, on the left bank of the Baspa River are snow-clad mountains and on the right bank the whole terrain is full of apple orchids and wooden houses.

Chitkul is around 569 km from the National capital Delhi and 24 km from Sangla. This is the last Indian village on border with China. The road doesn’t take you till the actual border, it closes around 90 km before it and then rest of the area is under the control of Indian Paramilitary force ITBP. There are wooden houses turned into hotels that can be found in Chhitkul, these hotels are a bit expensive and most of the tourist prefer to stay at Sangla and make a day trip to this place. Sangla is close to Chhitkul and hotels and camps provide very good arrangement for living and are comparatively cheaper. While in Chhitkul make sure you carry adequate cash and petrol or diesel for your car as there is no ATM facility or fuel stations in this hilly area. There is also neither a clinic nor any hospital in this area and one has to travel back to Sangla for emergencies. Chitkul is very cold and windy and the road normally closes down around November after the first snowfall.

 Famous for:
Kinnauri Shawls: This beautiful hand woven shawl with colorful borders can be expensive but is lifetime souvenir.
  • Kinnauri Cap: This, mostly green and grey cap, is the most typical thing from this area..
  • Apples: These are probably one of the best apples anywhere in the world. The harvest usually happens in October.
  • Chulli (Wild Apricot) Oil: Used for massage for health purposes as well as a cooking oil.

Authentic Kinnauri Winter Coats being produced


Places to Visit around Sangla:
  • Batseri - Devta Temple - fine example of local architectural style.
  • Chhitkul
  • Kalpa - Narayan Nagini Temple - eclectic mix of Buddhust, Hindhu and local folk beliefs
  • Rakcham
  • Sangla
  • Before Sangla ahead of Rampur is Sarahan - Bhimkali Temple

Trekking in Sangla Valley, Himachal Pradesh


Or simply relax - if hiking/trekking is not for you.
Sangla Valley, part of the region of Kinnaur. The Valley, also known as the Baspa Valley, has been called the `most beautiful valley in the Himalayas’.

Stretching for 95 km, the Sangla Valley is watered by the Baspa river, which meets the Satluj at Karcham, and by several smaller streams and springs. The Sangla Valley stretches across what was once a glacier moraine but is today a gorgeous swathe of green, dwarfed by the surrounding mountains. The clear waters of the Baspa run between orchards of apple and apricot, through villages where the houses have exquisitely carved wooden doors and steeply sloped slate roofs.



Trekking routes:


1. Along the Sangla Valley (Sangla-Kamru-Rakcham-Chitkul): The `basic’ Sangla Valley trek, this trek follows the course of the Baspa River, from Sangla to Chitkul, the last inhabited village in the valley. Start the trek at the Sangla village, the largest settlement in the valley. Close to the village are two of the valley’s biggest attractions: the Kamru Fort and the saffron farm. Kamru village, about a forty-minute walk from Sangla, is an intriguing blend of Hindu and Buddhist religion: a Buddhist temple where a local mural combines the Buddhist Mahakala with the Hindu deity Hanuman is an interesting example of the native culture. Kamru is also home to an old fort, constructed from wood and stone and decorated with gabled roofs. On the outskirts of the village lies a saffron farm, considered better than the one in Pampore, Kashmir.

From Kamru, walk on, 14 km along the bank of the Baspa river, to the village of Rakcham. Rakcham is home to a pagoda-style temple decorated with fine wood carvings. The village has accommodation and dining facilities (although limited) and you can stay here for the night, before going on the next day to Chitkul.

Chitkul, 25 km from Sangla village, is the last settlement along the Baspa; it has a campsite and a PWD resthouse. Chitkul is a base for the Kinner-Kailash pilgrimage; trekkers can either go further on the Kinner-Kailash trek, or walk another 4 km to Nagasthi, the last Indian outpost before the Tibetan border. Note that foreigners are not allowed to go beyond Chitkul without a special permit.

2.The Kinner-Kailash Circuit (Morang-Thangi-Rahtak-Charang La-Chitkul-Sangla-Kamru-Shang-Brua-Karcham): The mountain of Kinner-Kailash (not the Mt Kailash, which is actually on the bank of the Mansarovar lake in Tibet) rises to a height of 6,437 mt, towering over the Satluj river. The annual Kinner-Kailash yatra is an important pilgrimage for thousands of devout Hindus and Buddhists, but hundreds of avid trekkers also do the trip, for less religious reasons. The trek, which is best accomplished in July or August, takes about a week, and starts at Morang, on the left bank of the Satluj. Morang lies north-east of Chitkul and is connected by road to Rekong Peo and Tapri. You can spend part of the first day exploring the old monasteries of Morang, before you proceed. The actual trek starts at Thangi, a short distance from Morang, along the gushing waters of the Turung Gad torrent. 


From Thangi, walk 12 km up the valley to the village of Rahtak, where a tent can be pitched for the night. The next day is an arduous trek up to the 5,266 mt high Charang La Pass, after which the trail dips into the Sangla Valley. Follow the Baspa River to Chitkul, then make your way to Sangla village, stopping en route for a bit of sightseeing at Kamru. From Kamru, a trail leads, via Shang and Brua, through Karcham, up to Kinner-Kailash itself. The trek up the mountain takes a day in itself- or more, if you’re not in peak condition.


3.Chitkul-Doaria-Zupika Gad-Borsu Pass-Har ki Dun: This trek starts at the fag end of the Sangla Valley- at Chitkul- and heads eastward into neighbouring Garhwal, where it ends in Har ki Dun. Like the Kinner-Kailash trek, this one too is a fairly gruelling one and should be undertaken only with a good guide. The guide’s necessary not only because you might otherwise get lost, but also to help you get the permits which are essential to pass through the area. The Sangla Valley-Har ki Dun trek starts at the village of Chitkul, at the end of the Baspa Valley, and continues across the river, up to the village of Doaria, from where the trail leads right, heading towards Garhwal. The trek then leads up to the Zupika Gad, and from there to the high Borsu Pass. Descending from Borsu, you’ll come, in a few days’ time, into the ethereally beautiful valley of Har ki Dun in Garhwal.


Even though the Sangla Valley lies fairly close to India’s national border, no permits are required to visit the area. Don’t venture beyond the valley without a permit, though, as treks to Spiti and northern Kinnaur require an Inner Line Permit.

Please Note: Guides and packed meals are provided from Kinner Camp in Batseri village. The trekking routes information has been taken from their website. For latest updates on these routes you can contact them directly at
www.kinnercamps.com 


PLACES AROUND SANGLA


KAMRU FORT
The fort is at a distance of about 2 km from Sangla village and lies amidst picturesque surroundings. This is one of the oldest forts of Himachal and the entry to this tower-like fort is through a series of gates. At the main gate of the Fort is a stunning image of Lord Buddha which greets every visitor to the fort. The graceful wooden balcony, at the top of the fort, and the idol of Kamakhya Devi believed to have been brought from Guwahati installed on the third floor of the fort, are worth seeing. There is a Badrinath Temple inside the fort complex. One can trek the whole distance or drive a car halfway to the Fort. This is an half-day activity and best time to go is after breakfast so that one can return for Lunch. No guide is required for this.

BASPA RIVER – TROUT FARM
Sangla Valley is also known as the Baspa valley which enters India at Chitkul near the China border and then flows through the valley. This fast flowing river flowing through the hill town of Sangla is a major tourist attraction. Fishing in the Baspa River which is home to the rainbow and brown Trout is perhaps one of the greatest attractions of Sangla valley. The swirling current of the Baspa is home to both the rainbow and brown trout and is an angler’s paradise. There is a trout farm near to the Camp ( approx 20 mins walk) which also sells Trout sometimes. Crossing the Baspa River is another attraction of Sangla and provides the perfect dose for adventure lovers.  Camping along the bank of the Baspa River provides a perfect setting for a day out with nature sitting in its lap but one needs to be careful as mountain rivers are unpredictable and and can cause accidents. The peaceful place and the friendly people of Sangla provide the necessary boost for camping amidst such picturesque location.

KANDA – VALLEY OF FLOWERS
If you are planning a holiday in Sangla and wish to throw in a bit of exercise and adventure, this short trek is ideal for you. This way, you can savour the beauty of the pastures of Sangla Kanda without the exertion of the Rupin Pass trek. Enjoy the Kanda over the afternoon after climbing up from Sangla. Spend the night (or near) the Trekker’s Hut here and climb north -west the next day to cross the Shivaling Pass back toward the Baspa Valley Once across, stroll down to the trekking hut at Damabar, the pasture of Chansu Village. If time is not at a premium, spend another night watching the moon over Raldang Peak, due north across the Baspa Valley . From Dambar take to Chansu Village and Ruttrang Bridge, to reach the motor road 3 km below Sangla.
A short trek to Sangla Kanda Valley is approx 6 – 7 hrs. Four hours to go up and 2-3 to come down. The view is amazing at the top with a lake and glaciers.


5/6/12

Hiking Trails around Shimla





(Outdoor Activities)
Ω____(Himalayan Day Hikes: ‘The Century Old Trails’)____Ω

The Old Hindustan Tibet Trails:

1) The Mahasu Ridge Line: Skirting the Shimla Water Catchment sanctuary and the Oberoi Wildflower Hall, nature on this one hour trail oozes a sense of soothing on the times that once were. Within the walk one is able to enjoy a carpet of wild strawberries; the waterfall like sound that echoes amongst the Cedars; a host of wild ferns; wild flowers to match every season; and maybe even come across a barking deer or two. This is one for the senses… 
(Duration of Walk: 1 Hr. Grading: Easy)


2) The Cedar-Oak Vintage Trail: The trail initially follows from the lodge through the tarmac to the nearby Helipad: a hillock with a 360- degree striking view. This vantage point provides a grand view of the reserved forest mushrooming all over and one is furthermore able to glimpse parts of the Shimla town and the National Highway(22) leading to our village coupled with the Grand view of the closer by mountains and the Himalayan ranges. From the helipad, one blissfully leaves behind the sound of vehicles, the mob of clicking tourists and experiences the sounds of nature as you descend down on the trail which used to be in part the ‘Old Hindustan Tibet Trail’. The trail still remains a passage for the local villagers as a shorter access route (avoiding the highway) along with their herds on occasions. Visit the School for the blind, and start the loop around on this trail that remains untouched and is bountiful; where one finds nature in abundance and one is able to relax the senses and enjoy the sweet chirpings of wild birds, savor the wild flowers, the swaying Cedars, the rustling Oaks and some old colonial houses that mark the way. The walk provides you with a taste of the old village life, a peep at the times gone by and plenty of time to wonder away… until you reach the Presidential Retreat and return →Cedar Hill lodge again. 
(Duration of Walk: 2 Hrs. Grading: Easy)



3) The Cedar Sanctuary Trail: Fondly called Cedar Mountain this is the Century old ‘Shimla Water Catchment Sanctuary’ and encloses the Cedar Hill Lodge to its three sides. The duration spent in the forest ranges from an hour to three depending upon the temperament of the hikers that tread in this forest. A Cedar Sanctuary, this pristine undisturbed forest provides a home for a host of wildlife such as the Himalayan: Barking Deer, Leopard, Black Bear, Goral, Jackal, the yellow-throated Martin. In the lower belts of the forest and many areas around one can spot a host of birdlife toiling away such as the Himalayan: Woodpecker, Barbet, the colourful Minivets, Barbets, Cheer, Kokla and Khaleej Phesants. The forest also hosts a rich abundance of Himalayan flora and one can find self by spending the entire day exploring, taking to the sounds of nature and savoring the richness of the forest. 
(Duration of Walk: 2 Hrs. Grading: Medium)



4) The Suburban Mashobra Valley Hike: The hike takes you into the rapidly changing rural countryside surrounding Cedar Hill and the Shimla town. The walk demands fitness to a degree and can be undertaken in three hours on a constant, relaxing pace.

The trail begins with a sudden loopy descend from our village Charrabra to Mashobra that continues halfway on —and one constantly finds the self focused on his footing in these stony narrow pathways. The Shali Peak stands steadfast to the front displaying the tricks of altitude that the Himalayan landscape has to offer until it disappears only to emerge as the ascent begins. All along every village crossed ( Seepur, Shali, Deothi Kanda; Mulkoti) is marked with old temples representing their cultural and architectural heritage with a wealth of folklore and hospitality and the occasional smiles to greet you along. From Mulkoti – some rest and a picnic enjoyed – one then begins his hour long gradual ascent back to the Mashobra village. Here, one can utilize his vehicle to take the twenty-minute drive to the lodge or continue the ascent for an added half-hour through the constant shelter of Cedars and Oaks back to Cedar lodge, the village Chharabra. 

This entire trail is seeped in nature’s bounty with a whiff of the modern times to come. And though every traveler takes back soulfully his memories, one thing stands: the wonder that is these Himalayas; these mountains that stand dutifully diligent, preserving the folklore, a way of life, and the millions of years of evolution that now lays gloriously spread out just for you.
(Duration of Walk: 3 Hrs. Grading: Medium)



5) Hike to the Mashobra Valley & Back: The entire valley as seen from Cedar Hill below can be covered in this 4-5 Hrs. challenging hiking trail. This trail is an extension to ‘The Suburban Mashobra Valley Hike’: ( Seepur, Shali, Deothi & Mulkoti) and it further continues on to the villages of ( Kanda, Ghorna and Kotidhar). From Kotidhar, one then begins a steep climb back to the highway where not far the Cedar Hill stands. A handful of apple orchards, some wood and slate houses, tumbling tiny streams, old but renovated temples, bustling new schools, terraced fields of assorted vegetables: corn, wheat and potatoes; and glimpses of the famed cannabis mark the route during the hike in this valley. 
(Duration of Walk: 3-5 Hrs. Grading: Difficult)



6) The Shali-Tibba Excursion: A full day activity, the Shali Peak, dedicated to Goddess Kali has all the elements harmonized for a perfect outing. This habitually mist engulfed Peak is the local highest peak in the vicinity of Chharabra and Shimla. On a clear day, the peak offers a breathtaking view of the entire Himalayan ranges as seen from the Cedar Hill.

One enjoys the picturesque drive crossing Mashobra, then Baldeha, leading to a dirt track in part towards the ever beautiful the village Gulshaini and then a steady ascent on a bumpy road to the village of Khatnol. From here one starts the three hour ascent to the Shali Peak. We presume, as one would see Cedar Hill as a tiny dot in the landscape it would excite our guests having been at two hilltops separated by nothing but by empty space. 

After a frantic session of the digital eye and a well deserved rest & picnic, and the blessings of the Goddess Kali one begins the quick descent back to the village. By sunset you are on your way back driving to the Cedar Hill Lodge. We presume again from experience this is one trip that tends to relive, liven up the mind.
(Duration of Walk: 4 Hrs. Grading: Medium)


7) Mount Hatu Peak: On the National highway, the Hindustan Tibet Road, 50 Kms. from Cedar Hill Lodge lies Narkanda which is at an altitude of 2700 m. It offers a panoramic view of the Inner Himalayas; and 7 Kms. from Narkanda is the Hatu Peak, at a height of 3300 m. The drive into this countryside is scenic, relaxing and the ascent to Hatu is yet again in the cover of thick enriched forest of Cedars, Oaks, Spruce fir with the wild flowers and ferns spread across the route. There is an option of hiking from Narkanda if one chooses. The view at the top is soul searching which increases the experience of visiting the temple there. One can also visit the Apple country, the heartland from where the apple was introduced and has now spread in the entire state of Himachal - a village called Kotgarh. April is usually the month for Apple & Cherry blossoms, the sweet scent of which is stimulating to the senses.

 
(Drive: Chharabra Kufri Fagu Theog Nangla Devi Matiana Shilaru Narkanda Chharabra.)
(Duration of Walk: 2 Hrs. Grading: Easy)








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